If you live near the water in Southwest Florida, you’ve seen it happen: shiny hardware turns orange, coatings bubble, and “rust-proof” metal starts looking tired. Salt air is like a slow spray bottle you can’t turn off.

Here’s the key detail many homeowners miss: aluminum doesn’t rust like steel, but it can still corrode in a coastal environment. The difference matters, because the right finish, fasteners, and upkeep can make an aluminum fence look great for years in places like Cape Coral, Fort Myers, Estero, and Bonita Springs.

Rust is iron oxide, so it’s a steel problem. Aluminum forms a thin oxide layer that can protect it, kind of like a natural “skin.” The trouble starts when chlorides (salt) and moisture keep hitting the surface. That can lead to pitting corrosion , which looks like tiny craters that slowly deepen.

In coastal neighborhoods, the exposure isn’t just beach spray. It’s also salty humidity, wind-driven rain, and irrigation mist that dries on the fence and leaves chloride behind. The closer you are to open water or tidal canals, the more intense it gets.

Most visible “aluminum fence corrosion” issues are really failures in the protective system around the aluminum, not the metal itself:

• Powder coat breakdown (chips, scratches, UV fade, or loss of adhesion)
• Corrosion at cut ends and welds where bare metal or thin coating gets exposed
• Hardware rust from carbon steel screws, hinge pins, or gate latches
• Galvanic corrosion when aluminum touches a more “noble” metal and moisture bridges the connection

Galvanic corrosion is the sneaky one. When dissimilar metals touch (example: aluminum panel fastened with the wrong screw), salty moisture acts like an electrolyte. The less noble metal in the pair corrodes faster. You can get staining, bubbling near fasteners, or pitting around contact points. For a deeper background on how coastal exposure changes finish performance, see this discussion on coastal aluminum finish selection.

When people ask what “holds up best,” they often mean two things: which material stays strong, and which one still looks good after years of salt and sun. Near the coast, those aren’t always the same answer.

Here’s a practical comparison for salt-air conditions:

Powder-coated aluminum is usually the sweet spot for coastal Florida because it won’t red-rust, it handles humidity well, and it’s easy to rinse clean. Steel can work, but once the coating is damaged, rust tends to spread faster and show sooner.

Vinyl is the “no corrosion” option, but it has its own coastal headaches, heat expansion, storm debris damage, and gate alignment issues. Wood can look great, but it asks for the most maintenance in salty humidity.

The most common coastal fence failures aren’t the pickets. They’re the connection points: hinges, latches, screws, and any spot where water sits.

Choosing aluminum is step one. The long life comes from how it’s finished, assembled, and maintained. If you’re comparing options locally, start with corrosion-resistant aluminum fencing options that are built for Florida conditions, then ask better questions about the details below.

A quality powder coat is a barrier between salt and metal. In plain terms, the coating needs to be thick enough, bonded well enough, and tested to hold up outside.

Ask what performance standard the finish meets. For coastal work, many specs reference the AAMA 2600 series:

• AAMA 2604 is a common benchmark for higher-performing exterior coatings.
• AAMA 2605 is a higher bar often used for long-term color and chalk resistance.

Even the lower tier, AAMA 2603 , is a recognized baseline for exterior aluminum coatings (see the AAMA 2603 specification PDF ). If you want a plain-English overview of these AAMA levels, this AAMA 2603/2604/2605 Q&A is a helpful reference.

Also ask about pretreatment (conversion coating) before powder coating. In salt air, prep quality is often the difference between a coating that stays tight and one that blisters.

In coastal Florida, gate hardware is usually the first thing to look “rusty.” Even if the aluminum is fine, a few bad screws can stain rails and posts.

Practical picks that hold up better:

• 316 stainless steel fasteners for coastal exposure (better than 304 near salt)
• Polymer-coated fasteners when stainless isn’t possible
• Hinges and latches rated for exterior use, with protected springs and pins

If dissimilar metals must touch, isolate them. Simple parts make a big difference:

• Nylon or plastic washers under fastener heads
• Nonconductive bushings in gate hinges
• Barrier tape or coating between dissimilar metal contact points

Also avoid copper contact where you can (copper runoff can stain and accelerate corrosion issues on aluminum).

Think of salt like sand on a windshield. If you never rinse it off, it grinds away at the surface. A quick rinse with fresh water is the easiest protection you control.

A simple routine:

• Rinse the fence regularly (every 2 to 4 weeks is a solid starting point, more often for waterfront lots or after storms).
• Use mild soap if you see film buildup, then rinse well.
• Inspect problem areas a few times per year: gate hardware, welds, cut ends, post bases, and any scratched spots .

If you’re seeing recurring problems and wondering if repairs are worth it, use this guide on when to repair vs. replace a fence to sort out the next step.

• White powdery oxidation : Clean gently with mild soap and water, rinse, then watch the area. Check for chipped coating nearby.
• Blistering or bubbling powder coat : Often a sign of adhesion failure or corrosion under the film. Don’t ignore it, it usually spreads once started.
• Pitting : Look for a coating breach, scratch, or exposed edge. Stop the source, then talk to a pro about refinishing options.
• Dark streaks or rust stains : Usually failing fasteners or hardware. Replace with 316 stainless and add isolators.

For most coastal homes, the best all-around choice is an AAMA 2604 (or better) powder-coated aluminum fence with 316 stainless hardware and nonconductive isolation at connections, plus a simple rinse routine.

• Tight budget : Powder-coated aluminum with upgraded fasteners in the most exposed areas (especially gates), plan to rinse more often.
• Minimal maintenance : Aluminum with higher-grade coating, 316 stainless throughout, clean design that sheds water, fewer horizontal ledges.
• High-end coastal : Top-tier coating spec (ask about 2605-level performance), 316 stainless hardware, careful isolation at every connection, and scheduled inspections.

Salt air is tough, but it’s predictable. When the coating, hardware, and details are chosen on purpose, aluminum fence corrosion becomes a manageable issue instead of a repeating expense.